African-Caribbean Hair Care Advice & Products | Philip Kingsley
Natural Coiled Curls & Textured Hair
Natural Coiled Curls
Natural coiled curls, as in many variations of African and Caribbean hair, tend to have a great deal of body and bounce. You may also find that your hair is fragile and prone to breakage. This is due to its fine diameter and porous structure, as well as to the curls’ corkscrew-like shape, which has weaker points where it bends. We recommend selecting products specifically formulated for natural coiled curls in order to keep your strands nourished, strong and supple.
Shampooing and Conditioning Natural Coiled Curls
Daily shampooing helps deliver bounce and shine to all hair types. This is because your hair accumulates bits of dirt, dust, oil and grime every day – just like your skin — and these can really weigh it down. Daily shampooing also helps keep your scalp clear of skin-cell build-up, and your hair hydrated. (It is in fact water, not oil, that delivers moisture and suppleness to your strands.)
Because naturally coiled strands have a porous structure, they are prone to moisture evaporation, and this can leave your hair dry and brittle. We recommend using nourishing, hydrating products, such as ones labeled ‘moisturizing’, ‘re-moisturizing’, ‘emollient’, ‘deep conditioning’, ‘elasticizing’, ‘penetrative’ and ‘intensive’.
Reach for a pre-shampoo conditioner, such as our Elasticizer Extreme, once or twice a week. If your hair is damaged and dry from chemical processing and/or frequent heat styling, give yourself a twice-weekly treatment.
Products we recommend for natural coiled curls:
Styling Natural Coiled Curls
This hair type has plenty of natural body, but it can be time-consuming to style if you wish to shape your curls into a smooth, straight or braided look.
Try to be careful when using blow-dryers and tongs: too much heat can dehydrate your hair, making it dull and brittle. Look for lighter styling products that seal moisture into your hair shaft and combat frizz, while maintaining your hair’s natural bounce. (Avoid heavy, oily products that will weigh your curls down.)
Natural coiled curls tend to tangle easily. To avoid hair breakage, be gentle when detangling your strands. Apply a conditioning spray or serum, then start at the ends and work up to your roots with a wide-tooth comb.
All types of curly hair reflect less light than straight hair, making it harder to achieve a mirror-like shine. If you want added gloss on your curls, use products that condition, smooth the cuticle, and encourage light reflection.
If you dye, bleach or straighten your hair, make sure you protect and hydrate it. The individual strands of coiled curls have a flattened (versus round) shape, which allows them to absorb chemicals more rapidly than other hair textures. This makes them particularly vulnerable to damage. To help prevent snapping and breakage, use an intensive pre-shampoo conditioning treatment, such as our Elasticizer Extreme, at least once a week.
If you wear your hair in braids or other tight styles, be careful of a type of hair loss called traction alopecia. Traction hair loss is caused by long-term pulling on your hair follicles. It generally starts as recession at your front hairline, and can then continue with a general thinning all over your scalp. In some cases, people’s hair comes out in clumps. If you act on traction alopecia early, you will be able to reverse the hair loss — but as the condition progresses, hair loss becomes permanent. The best ways to prevent it are to reduce the tightness of your braids / buns / ponytails — or alternate tighter hair styles with looser ones, to give your follicles time to recover.